Marché St.-Antoine

Lyon is full of restaurants. There is a 3 Michelin star establishment- Paul Bocuse- neighbourhood hang-outs and all forms of eating in between. But the market on the banks of the Saone, at Quai Saint Antoine, is in a category all its own. Where Les Halles is a beautiful formal waltz, this food market is a wild local dance, a swirl of colour and taste. Buy a picnic and sit on the riverbanks, or eat hot roast chicken straight from the bag, with a warm, torn baguette. There is a seating area with wine, and oysters for sale, where accordions may even be played, but the real joy lies in the quality and array of fruit, flowers, vegetables, fish, cheeses, spices, breads and cakes.

Everything is in season – tomatoes the size and colour of cricket balls, melons scented like a tropical evening, rustling, fat bulbs of garlic and strawberries that taste of early Summer dawns are piled into bowls, all bright and bursting with freshness.There are rotisseries where rows of tender chickens slowly twirl, the hot, fragrant fat cooking the potatoes below. Other stalls are piled with bowls of powdery spices, or huge wheels of local cheeses, teetering like hat-boxes, and the air is dense with roasting meat, herbs and flowers. This is as all food markets should be- and it’s there every morning except Monday, when perhaps even these shouting, cheerful stallholders need a rest.

Guide to Marché St.-Antoine, LyonGuide to Marché St.-Antoine, Lyon

Guide to Lyon, France
Guide to Marché St.-Antoine, Lyon
Quai Saint-Antoine 69002 Lyon Cordelliers / Bourse

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